Oil Pressure and Hydraulics Good!

Good progress last several weeks.  Installed new starter, spun motor enough to have oil pump fill oil filter and then provide a measurable pressure of about 10psi.  Even got it to read using the original oil pressure gauge (not running in picture, couldn't take picture and get power to starter at same time)!

Received another parts shipment allowing completion of the rear brakes.  This picture shows the front brake springs in place on the rear and using a new hole drilled into the upper shoe to attain the six inch stretched dimension for the spring, same as how they are used on the front:

Had a local hydraulics shop make a brake line for the missing one on the passenger side rear axle.  Guessed at 17 inch length, worked out real well.  Also installed the clutch slave cylinder so we were ready to bleed the hydraulics.

Started bleeding at furthest point on brake side, driver's rear.  Had a helper to pump the pedal.  Could not get any fluid to come out, either with pumping or using vacuum via mighty vac.  But we did start getting fluid dripping from the drivers rear wheel cylinder.  After digging further, found the rubber boot was under the fitting connecting the line to the wheel cylinder.  Disassembled parts and made hole bigger in rubber boot, put back together, no more leak.  Tried bleeding again, no luck at drivers rear but could bleed at the other three corners.  Noticed dripping from base of bleeding on driver's rear when pushing on pedal with nipple open - turns out the bleed nipple was plugged!  Ran a wire through it, could then bleed drivers rear just like the other three corners.  Bled clutch as well.  Clutch worked a lot better after we installed it's return spring.  We are using non original pushrods from the pedals to the master cylinder, suspect they are a little too short, we can fix this later, but no signs of air in the system.  The pushrods are viewable in some of the battery box pictures.   Also clearly labeled the master "DOT5" to prevent anyone from mixing regular fluid with the silicone we used.

The battery box is now repaired.  Prior owner had removed the bottom of the box, likely had rusted away:

We could have replaced the entire box, but the rest of the metal was fine and was painted to match.  So we made and installed a new bottom.  Here's what it looked like in the flat:

Had a friend with a finger brake, was able to nicely bend the four corners to created a pan.  Painted it to match and pop riveted it in place:

We are using a plastic battery tray liner, so this parts won't be visible at all except under the dash if you twist your head under there.

The front end of the body had loose bolts and some missing spacers where it attaches to the frame (either side of engine and all the way at front).  Installed new spacers and bolts, went together very nicely.  Good alignment means it's either not been hit or was repaired very well.

Back to the starter.  Kept bugging me about feeling the bolts holding the ring gear in place.  Decided to remove starter and found the bolts I was feeling were the clutch cover bolts!  This made more sense, as the car now appears to have it's original shrink fit ring gear.  But also means we have the wrong starter!  Going to order the correct starter, in process of trying to return the other starter since it was only run for about one minute.